How-To: Iron-On Transfers & Patches
We don’t sell ready-made clothing. This is DIY by design. Our customers like customizing their own garments — it’s more affordable, more flexible, and lets you upgrade clothes you already trust and love.
Our iron-on transfers are made to last. When applied correctly, they hold up very well to washing and daily wear. And if something goes wrong, don’t worry — with photo proof, we’ll replace your transfer.
Always think about what you’re ironing onto — it’s easier to ruin a fabric than a transfer.
That’s why we include sample pieces with every order.
A quick test can save your favorite jacket.
How to Apply an Iron-On Transfer
These instructions apply to most of our products: vinyl flex (HTV), printed transfers (multicolor designs), embroidery and leather patches.
1. Prepare the surface
Work on a hard, flat surface. Lightly pre-heat the fabric for a few seconds to remove moisture.
2. Position the transfer
Remove the thin protective film so the design stays on the liner.
Place the transfer glue-side down on the fabric.
3. Press
Cover with baking paper or a thin cotton cloth.
Set your iron to cotton — no steam.
Press firmly for 10–15 seconds, applying even pressure.
If the design is large or placed on a curved area, move the iron to heat evenly.
4. Peel and check
Let it cool slightly, then gently remove the liner.
If an edge hasn’t bonded, place the liner back and press again.
5. Second heating (very important)
Once the liner is removed, press the design again for 5–10 seconds, always with protection on top.
👉 This second heating is what makes the transfer stronger and longer-lasting.
From customer feedback and real use, this step makes a clear difference over time.
Note:
This second heating applies to vinyl and printed transfers only.
It does not apply to embroidery patches or genuine leather patches, which follow a different fixing logic.
Fabric & Material Notes
- Cotton and natural fabrics: ideal, heat-resistant, easiest to work with
- Polyester blends: usually fine, avoid excessive heat
- Nylon & synthetic leather: fragile — lower heat, shorter press
- Real leather: tolerates heat better than synthetic, but always test first
Some finishes — especially glitter, gold, and silver vinyls — often need a slightly longer press and work best with a cool peel (liner removed after cooling).
This is also why test samples matter.
As one customer told us:
“I did everything the same — one logo stuck perfectly, the other didn’t.”
The reason? Two identical-looking T-shirts, but very different fabrics.
Aftercare
Wait 24 hours before washing.
Wash inside out.
Avoid direct high heat on the design.